From the Emerald Isle to the Spree – A journey through the history of Irish pubs

The history of Irish pubs stretches back over a millennium. Sean’s Bar in Athlone, County Westmeath, which was founded in the 10th century, lays claim to the title of Ireland’s oldest pub, while The Brazen Head in Dublin has been in existence since 1198 and is considered the oldest pub in the capital. The importance of meeting places was already established in the time of ancient Irish law, known as Brehon Law. Local kings had to have a ‘bruigu’ (brewer), whose home, the ‘bruidean’, had to be open 24 hours a day, located on a public street and open to all guests. These early forms of ‘taverns’ or ‘inns’ served as central meeting places for the community, where news and stories were exchanged. The obligation to open 24 hours a day under Brehon Law emphasises the fundamental role of these places in early Irish society, which went far beyond the mere consumption of alcohol. This points to a deep-rooted cultural need for communal spaces.

The Norman invasion in 1169 brought new influences to Irish drinking culture. The Normans introduced the tradition of the Alehouses and their fondness for wine. Wine merchants, known as ‘vintners’, established taverns to sell surplus wine, which led to the naming of Winetavern Street in Dublin. The Brazen Head, Dublin’s oldest pub, dates back to this time and was established shortly after the invasion in 1198. This Norman influence demonstrates a historical pattern of cultural exchange that characterised the development of Irish drinking establishments, merging indigenous traditions with new customs. This illustrates the dynamic nature of pub culture from its inception.

Over the course of the 17th and 18th centuries, the pub landscape underwent further changes. In 1635, state licensing for pubs was introduced. Grace Neill’s in Northern Ireland claims the title of Ireland’s oldest licensed pub, with a licence dating back to 1611. Pubs became an alternative for the common labourer to the private drinking establishments of the wealthy classes. Laws such as the Drink on Credit to Servants Act of 1735 reflect the social and regulatory context of the time. This regulation, officially known as the ‘Tippling Act 1735’, was intended to prevent innkeepers from granting credit for alcoholic drinks to servants, day labourers and other low-income earners. The Act stipulated that innkeepers who gave drinks on credit to such people could not recover the debt through the courts. Essentially, it aimed to protect low-income earners from accumulating debt by allowing them to obtain credit for alcohol purchases.

By 1760, there were already a considerable number of public houses in Dublin (2,300), which were often identified by colourful signs due to widespread illiteracy. The introduction of licensing marked a formal recognition and regulation of pubs by the state, indicating their growing social and economic importance. The laws passed during this period provide an insight into the social hierarchies and concerns of the era.

Irish pubs underwent a significant transformation in the 19th century as a result of the growing temperance movement in Ireland. This movement forced pub owners to diversify their businesses, leading to the emergence of the “spirit grocery” – a combination of pub and grocery or other business under one roof. This combination sometimes extended to unusual pairings such as pub owners who were also undertakers. Many Irish pubs still retain the layout of these spirit groceries, with the counter and shelves dominating the main area. This also explains the different appearance compared to British pubs. Spirit groceries existed until the 1960s, when supermarkets appeared. The Spirit Groceries era is a unique and defining feature of Irish pub history and demonstrates the resilience and adaptability of pub owners in the face of significant social and economic change. This historical curiosity continues to characterise the physical appearance of many traditional Irish pubs.

In the 20th century, Irish pubs played an important role in social life, serving as venues for music, poetry readings and cultural events. The late 20th century saw the emergence of pubs modelled on the great Victorian establishments, driven by the Guinness Irish Pub Concept and the Irish Pub Company, founded in 1990, with the aim of exporting the Irish pub worldwide. An 1872 law required pub owners to display their name above the door, which became an enduring tradition. In 2004, smoking was banned in pubs, which led to the creation of outdoor areas. The 20th century saw the professionalisation and globalisation of the Irish pub concept, which evolved from local community centres to an internationally recognised brand. The smoking ban illustrates the continuing influence of social and health regulations.

For centuries, the pub has been an integral part of Irish society and a pillar of the community, comparable to the local church. It serves as a place for leisure activities, social interaction and community gatherings. American sociologist Ray Oldenburg identified the pub as the archetypal ‘third place’ – neither home nor workplace – that is crucial to maintaining community and social capital. The concept of the pub as a “third place” provides a valuable sociological framework for understanding its deep integration into Irish social life, offering continuity and a sense of belonging. The comparison with the church emphasises its central role in community cohesion.

The ‘craic’ (fun, lively atmosphere, banter) is a defining characteristic. Pubs have historically been places of storytelling, preserving oral traditions and local lore. Live music, particularly traditional Irish music performances, is an integral part of many pubs and promotes a lively atmosphere. The emphasis on craic, storytelling and music emphasises the role of the Irish pub as a cultural performance space that encourages social interaction and the sharing of cultural heritage. These elements contribute significantly to the unique and welcoming atmosphere.

Pubs are central to the celebration of festivals, weddings, funerals, wakes, christenings and birthdays. Historically, they served as meeting places for revolutionaries and intellectuals and provided forums for political discussions. Even today, pubs are still places where current events and local affairs are discussed. The pub’s function as a venue for both joyous celebration and serious political discourse emphasises its multifaceted role in Irish community life and acts as a flexible and adaptable social space.

Many famous Irish writers such as James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde, Patrick Kavanagh and Brendan Behan found inspiration in pubs. Pubs are often depicted as settings and even characters in Irish literature. Literary pub crawls in Dublin celebrate this connection. The strong connection between Irish literature and pubs emphasises the role of the pub not only as a social space, but also as a cultural incubator that encourages creativity and intellectual exchange. This connection has contributed to the romanticised image of the Irish pub.

The Irish presence in Germany dates back to the Middle Ages, when Irish monks founded monasteries. After the Norman invasion, there was significant emigration, with Irish soldiers fighting in European wars. In the 19th century, mass emigration was mainly to the USA due to famine and economic hardship. In the 21st century, there was a renewed increase in Irish migration to Germany. In 2012, over 2,800 Irish people moved to Germany, and by 2021 around 35,000 were living there. Reasons for modern migration include lifestyle, affordability and creative opportunities, particularly in Berlin. While historical Irish emigration was largely directed to the US, the more recent trend of migration to Germany, particularly Berlin, indicates a shift in favoured destinations driven by different socio-economic factors. The growth of the Irish community in Germany is a relatively recent phenomenon.

Berlin in particular has been a centre of attraction for Irish people for centuries, from missionary activities to modern artists and entrepreneurs. There are historical links to personalities such as Samuel Beckett, who lived in Berlin. After the Second World War, Ireland provided aid to Berlin. More recently, Berlin has attracted young Irish people due to the freedom to travel within the EU and its vibrant arts scene. The Irish Embassy in Berlin actively supports the Irish community. The Irish community in Berlin is estimated to number several thousand. Berlin’s appeal to the Irish has changed over time, from historical figures and post-war aid to a contemporary centre for young creatives. The presence of an active Irish community provides a foundation for the establishment and success of Irish pubs.

On 6 August 1977, the ‘Irish Folk Pub’ opened in Munich, considered the first Irish pub in Germany. It still exists today. Since then, the development indicates a significant increase in their presence, especially in larger cities. The ‘new wave’ of Irish pubs worldwide began in the 1990s. The Kilkenny Irish Pub in Berlin was founded in 1992 and is one of the oldest and largest. The Irish Pub in the Europa Centre is another well-known and older establishment. The establishment of Irish pubs in Germany appears to be largely a post-1990s phenomenon, coinciding with increasing globalisation and the deliberate export of Irish pub culture. The early establishment of pubs such as the Kilkenny in Berlin points to the early adaptation of this trend in the city.

Many Germans find Irish pub culture more appealing than English pub culture. Many Germans have visited Ireland and experienced the pub culture there first-hand. Irish pubs also offer British and Irish expats a sense of familiarity and a ‘home away from home’. They cater to expats, revellers and visitors alike and often feature live music and sports broadcasts. The popularity of Irish pubs in Germany is likely due to a combination of factors, including positive perceptions of Irish culture, the welcoming atmosphere they offer expats and their appeal as entertainment venues.

Guinness played a significant role in the global expansion of Irish pubs through active business development and support for new establishments. The Irish Pub Company, founded by Mel McNally, was dedicated to exporting authentic Irish pubs worldwide, including to Germany. It designed and built the Kilkenny Irish Pub in Berlin. The partnership between Guinness and the Irish Pub Company in the 1990s was instrumental in this expansion. Many pubs could be ‘Irish’ in name only, mainly to promote the sale of Guinness. The strategic efforts of Guinness and the Irish Pub Company have been instrumental in the expansion of Irish pubs in Germany and around the world and underline the deliberate commercialisation of Irish pub culture.

Berlin has a remarkable number of Irish pubs. The aforementioned Kilkenny Irish Pub is one of the largest and best known. The Irish Pub in the Europa Centre is also popular, especially with tourists, and offers live music every evening. Other pubs mentioned are The Lir, Blarney Irish Pub, Celtic Cottage, Finnegan’s, The Double Inn and others. The existence of numerous Irish pubs in the German capital indicates their continued popularity and integration into Berlin’s diverse nightlife scene, appealing to locals and tourists alike.

However, there are some challenges. Due to tourism, some prices are relatively high, especially in direct comparison with traditional pubs in Ireland. Some venues are also increasingly cutting back on elements such as live music or pub quizzes due to increased rents and service charges. This indicates possible changes or difficulties in maintaining the traditional atmosphere. German bar culture may be different, with more emphasis on table service, which could affect the sense of community often associated with Irish pubs. Therefore, although popular, Irish pubs in Berlin may have challenges in terms of pricing, maintaining authentic cultural elements and adapting to local German bar preferences.

However, many Irish pubs in Berlin still offer live music, often traditional Irish music, but also other genres. Sports broadcasts, especially of Irish and British sports such as rugby and football, are common. Pub quizzes are now also common. Some emphasise an authentic Irish ambience in their decor and atmosphere. The menus often include Irish classics such as Irish stew, fish and chips and Irish breakfast. Some pubs, such as The Lir, follow a more subtle Irish theme with a focus on food and a relaxed atmosphere. Irish pubs in Berlin often differentiate themselves through a combination of traditional Irish elements such as live music, sports and specific food and drink, while some adapt to local tastes with a more low-key approach.

Traditional Irish pubs are often described as warm, welcoming and cosy, encouraging camaraderie. They encourage conversation and closeness, often in smaller, tighter spaces and with less emphasis on tables and televisions compared to American bars. The “round system”, where groups take turns to buy drinks, is an important social tradition in Irish pubs. Berlin pubs may have a different social dynamic, with table service being more common in some establishments. Some Irish pubs in Berlin strive for an authentic decor with dark wood and memorabilia, while others may favour a more modern ambience. While Berlin Irish pubs often endeavour to replicate the welcoming atmosphere and traditional elements of their Irish counterparts, differences in local bar culture, such as the prevalence of table service, could lead to variations in social interaction.

It is argued that Irish pubs abroad can sometimes become caricatures, focussing on stereotypical “Irishness”. Authenticity in design, food, drink, music and staff training is seen as key to a successful Irish pub. The Irish Pub Company aims to create authentic designs with Irish-made furnishings. Some Berlin pubs are described as ‘authentic’ while others may favour a relaxed atmosphere over strict adherence to tradition. The concept of “authenticity” in an Irish pub abroad is complex and involves a balance between replicating traditional elements and adapting to the local context. Some establishments may emphasise a true Irish experience, while others may focus on creating a welcoming and enjoyable venue for a wider audience.

Germans generally find pubs entertaining but may not have the same deep cultural connection as British or Irish people. They may perceive “traditional British pubs” (which for Brits often means normal pubs) as different from their normal pub experience. In Germany, there is a generally positive perception of Irish people and Irish culture, often associated with pubs, music and landscapes. Cologne, Cork’s twin city, is known as a party city with many Irish pubs. Germans seem to have a generally positive view of Irish pubs and often associate them with a lively and pleasant atmosphere. However, the cultural significance may differ from that in Ireland, where pubs play a more central social role.

The journey of the Irish pub from its ancient roots in Ireland to its current presence in Berlin is remarkable. These establishments are more than just places to consume alcohol; they are vibrant centres of community, culture and connection. In Berlin, traditional Irish pub culture merges with local German flavour, creating unique places that attract expats, locals and tourists alike. The enduring popularity of Irish pubs in Berlin is testament to their ability to adapt while retaining the spirit of Irish hospitality and cosiness. They offer a slice of Ireland in the centre of the German capital and remain places where stories are told, friendships are made and Irish culture is celebrated.